The Ling Canal

The Ling Canal was built on the orders of the first Emperor of China so as to connect the water systems of the Yangtse River and Pearl River in order to transport men and supplies. This allowed his troops to pacify the southern states and thereby contune the unification of China. Amazingly the canal still functions as designed, though it is now  a tourist attraction and not a trade route.

The Ling Canal is situated 66 kilomteres to the north of Guilin and flows through the town of Xingan. It begins at a V-shaped weir which is designed to push just enough water (approximately 30%) down through the canals. Actually there are two, one on either side of the river. This is necessary to allow excess water to drain off and back into the main river rather than flood the section of canal that connects the two rivers.

This section, the Southern Canal is 34 kilometres long. This is far longer than the distance between the two rivers but necessary to maintain sufficient height along the route. It some places the water flowing in different directions is even just 20 metres apart.

Yangshuo and the Rice Terraces

We had a terrific time visiting the Yangshuo area with the help and guidance of Yangers. We are so very grateful for all the effort that went into looking after us and making sure we got to experience to the fullest all that we wanted to do.

We had mentioned prior to our arrival of our desire to experience the local cusine --tasty local dishes. I don--singlequote--t think we had anything western the whole time we were there--semicolon-- it was just what we wanted. (We--singlequote--re convinced, however, that if all we had wanted was western food then our guide would have made sure we had only western.) Yangers went out of its way to tailor make our visit to our desires.

The care for our well being was always evident. It certanily was evident when Pat took ill while we were on the bike ride--semicolon-- nothing really serious (weakness due to the heat), but she simply would not be able to complete the ride. Our guide, Julie, got us effortlessly to a point of rest while she made alternative arrangments. Pat took a quiet, cool, relaxing bamboo raft to a little village on the river that was to be the terminal of the bike ride. While she was rafting regally down the river Julie and I finished the scenic bike ride. We met up at a cafe overlooking the river and enjoyed one terrific lunch of local dishes. We all then rafted back to Yangshuo. What could have been a wasted day turned out to be a fantastic experience.

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The Hike

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There are many hikes around Yangshuo but between Alf and I there is only one Hike; the one we accidentally discovered the day the pedal fell off his new and very expensive mountain bike.

The same two ladies that chose the bike ride from Guilin to Xingping (my previous article) became our first customers to take the challenge and - since I have become more familiar with the twists, turns and climbs - I became guide for the day.

Actually, the day started on bikes. We rode up to the picturesque Dragon Bridge on the Yulong River as a warm up. I chose the far bank as we would walk back along some of the near bank later. As expected, we saw no other tourists on that side of the river; not until we hit the Dragon Bridge anyway.

After obligatory photos we headed through the village to meet Alf and Xiao Su on the far side at the start of the hiking section. They had come by car to give us our food for the day and to take the bikes back.

We headed through one small village before I could put the first challenge out to the two guests. Alf and I have been puzzled by some strange mounds on the far side of this village. They are definitely artificial - but their purpose defies reason. There was to be no enlightenment today but with photos to be posted with this article soon we are hoping for someone out there to provide the answer.

The next challenge was less intellectual. We came to the end of the village plantations only to be told that there was no way through. From memory I could recollect a bit of scrambling here so we ignored the helpful locals and skirted around the thorny goat excluder until we could make our way past without a scratch.

The sesnse of freedom was shortlived as we soon turned the corner to see back-end of Baisha, never an attractive town. Fortunately our route took us up and away from that, up to a glorious little shelter from the days before motorbikes, when this route would have been well trodden.

On the far side is a pretty little valley. We stopped to scramble up a convenient rock. The sheer face on the one side provided great sport, and the easy descent on the other could easily be hidden from the camera.

We were now walking along an ancient 'Way' or 'Dao' - the same 'Way' as used in Daoism. The cobbled path rose up over a saddle and was temporarily replaced by steps cut out of the bedrock below, only to drop back down to the next village.

I knew I had to be careful here having gone wrong at some point on my last hike. I just about managed to eliminate my previous mistake when a kindly old soul guess our intent and pointed down the least likely option. Bless him - we turned the corner and I recognised the spot where Alf and I had clambered up a small mountain as an excuse to rid ourselves of an annoying  tourist on our original passage this way.

We hiked a little further before deciding that the view proffered suited our tastes. We laid out the ponchos and tucked into the welcome lunch. Bacon and cheese baguettes - not exactly traditional but spot on.

Unfortunately, our excellent choice was recognised by the only other foreigners to pass by. They got off their bikes and started to buzz all around us, perhaps in the hope of getting some of our delicious snacks. They obviously didn't get the tranquility thing.

It didn't matter. We only had to walk out through the next village to get on another redundant path and to feel alone again. This path took us up into a rare patch of coniferous trees; a welcome bit of variety. We even got to see the results of a recent rockfall, and to appreciate that we weren't underneath at the time.

On the descent I could make out one of the options for the next section. However, the two were coping well with the terrain and opted for the longer alternative. That was lucky because the views back down through Spring blossom were glorious.

We pushed our way through dense undergrowth, surprising goats and perhaps other wildlife unseen. Whether or not we surprised the goatherd around the next corner will remain a mystery. He didn't seem at all phased by the appearance of three foreigners in his secluded wilderness; he just carried on whistling his flock down off the slopes and carrying on as if such things were either the norm or not worth worrying about.

Anyway - he was the last soul we saw until dropping right down out of the next feature of the hike. I didn't let on until we could actually see the walls before describing the fortress that we were about to enter. The mountains here are rugged enough, but someone in the the distant past had considered something important enough to fortify three passes and create a sizeable retreat up in the hills.

We scrambled through the big stone gate on the far side and I cut a way down the bramble infested slope to the last feature. This is reached by crossing a new dam and skirting the edge of a small reservoir - one that had been bone dry on our first trip.

I walked around to where two thick parallel walls were set at the edge of the bowl and asked for suggestions. Alf and I had struggled with this one for a while. Our guess, a bomb shelter, had only been confirmed once I showed my wife a photo of a plaque on a rock nearby and she had translated the characters for airfield.

Xiao Su was waiting for us just over the rise, smiling as usual. (Perhaps he is always glad he doesn't have to take part in the activities.) He loaded us up and took us back to Yangshuo avoiding a slog along the road. An excellent day again, and another one worthy of a celebratory beer

Guilin to Xingping Bike Ride

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16 March started early. Alf had arranged to come and pick me up outside my house just after 06:30 for the drive up to Guilin. We were to meet two of his clients there and then cycle from the outskirts of Guilin down the countryside on the far (East) bank of the Li River to Xingping. It was a ride I had long wanted to do and the day looked just perfect. A little cloud cover but otherwise just cool and fresh.

Xiao Su, the driver, and Alf arrived right on time. Everything had been arranged the day before; bikes, food and water were all loaded in the back. I just needed my camera and a change of clothes.

The drive to Guilin is normally just a chore but at this time in the morning the road was clear and the hills were glorious with a rosy sky behind. We made good time and met the two ladies at the Universal Hotel in Guilin. I stayed there many times as a tour leader so it was strange to see it now in a  different light.

Eight O'Clock was still a bit early for most people leaving to do the famous Li River Cruise. They were still at breakfast and so formalities were soon over and we left, heading for the start point. Before we even got there, Alf had a call to say that someone had left a wallet in the room. Though Amy had to return and miss the start of the ride, that averted a possible disaster.

Georgina, Alf and I set off on our mountain bikes, using the relatively flat first section to warm up and get to know each other. Alf had taken the two for a Guilin City Tour the day before but this was my first meeting.

The kilometres rolled away under our wheels with Alf pointing out the local crops and giving a run down of local issues. We soon arrived at a small town where we stopped for Guilin Miefen (local rice noodles - a favourite breakfast). Still no sign of Xiao Su and Amy so we carried on.

We stopped at the first section of Li River and watched a local lady busy at her laundry. We could just about make out the Li River Cruise Docks at the end of the straight. The car caught up with us not long after we had passed there. Amy was amazed by the distance we had covered but none of us was really feeling it yet. Good bikes make all the difference.

The four of us now carried on together. We stopped again at an abandoned temple now used as a community centre. The pool table at the back looked like it could have done with a brick or two for levelling off. No-one seemed to care.

The flat ended soon after that. Alf considered the first hill just a warm-up and told us that the day included two much bigger ones. The first of those started as we left the road heading to Crown Cave and turned left. The sign clearly said Xingping though no road is marked on any local map. No wonder - the tarmac gave way to dirt and the switchbacks ahead soon became obvious.

I ride a fair bit and so the relentless up was no great hardship. Georgina was coping well and Amy did after we sorted out her gears. Alf, cheeky chap, dropped back until he could use the support car for a lift - a fact we would not have noticed had Xiao Su stopped further back as instructed. Fortunately for us he either didn't understand or was having his own little laugh and Alf had to make excuses.

With the height gained we could now see for tens of kilometres all around. The best views were to the west, over the Li River and to an absolutely stunning backdrop.

We passed Da Tian (Big Field), a charming little village with a style of porch over the doors that I had never seen before. New breeze-block buildings were going up all around so, no doubt, this innovation will disappear before long.

Despite the noodles, hunger struck not long after twelve. We could see the lunch spot, a small lake, far below and had great fun free-wheeling all the way down and around to a patch of green grass that would serve as our picnic site.

Alf had a couple of bags of goodies to fill our bellies to bursting. We didn't eat it all but certainly felt heavy as we set off again. We took it easy for a while but then, with the next big hill on us, had no choice but to drop down the gears and go for it.

At the top, the scenery was quite different. The hills were more open and the road contoured around on an almost treeless landscape. We could see big mountains off to the east but not the conical ones that have made the Guilin/Yangshuo area so famous.

The next descent was welcome but less enjoyable. The road here was very bumpy and arms and bums began to ache. We stopped just before reaching the valley floor as the views out over the now lush looking paddy fields was well worth a photo stop even if none of us had the camera or skill to quite capture the beauty completely. Cows and goats took the opportunity to get snapped too, on their way back from a drink down in the brook below.

The run into Xingping is pretty much flat. We went past a couple of great swimming spots but, it being only March, we were not tempted in.

We entered Xingping but did not head to the guesthouse straight away. Alf had one more activity planned first.

We took the bikes on the short ride out of town to a spot now famous, especially with domestic tourists. After a day of stunning scenery it was hard to say that this spot was better than any other - but since the view we were now looking at had been chosen to decorate the back of every 20 Yuan note we decided it was worth a visit. Like everyone else we took a couple of photos holding up the brown note just to mark the occasion.

We celebrated the end of the bike ride with a beer on the guesthouse rooftop. Alf and I then headed back home to Yangshuo to freshen up and collect our respective boys from school. The two ladies stayed in Xingping as Alf would return next day to cycle with them the rest of the way to Yangshuo. I would have to miss out on that; other work to do.

Yangdi-Xingping

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Definitly my favourite trip ......but I have done this trip on a local raft....about 2hrs.

On a lovely sunny Autumn day you could not get it any better. The rafts stop off for photo shots at the 9 horses mountain.

There is a commercial photographer there who will develop & laminate your photo for 10Y. The river "mafia" collect 4y per person somewhere along the trip, but to stop arguments with foreigners the raft driver now pays them.

We were dropped off along the river from Xingping which allows for a pleasant wander back into town up through the old street...( which keeps evolving very quickly) to the bus station. At Yangdi there is a very good restaurant ...the last building before the river. Very good food at a resonable cost. On both my trips we had lunch there before taking the raft. To get to Yangdi catch a local bus at the bus station.

Highly recommended trip.

Guilin to Yangshuo Expressway

There is now a new Expressway that links Guilin and Yangshuo. This new road is perfect for airport transfers as it cuts the travelling time by about half an hour. We came from the airport yesterday on the new expressway and it took an hour and 10 minutes instead of the usual 1 hour and 45 minutes.....click here for the rest of the article

If you have booked an arrival transfer to your hotel in Yangshuo, check to see if the car will be using this new road. Please note that this new expressway has a toll and your transfer will be more expensive than going on the old road

In the future, this expressway will go all the way to Guangzhou which would mean that bus services to Guangzhou and Shenzhen will be quicker and safer


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Christmas Party

Thank you so much for the information regarding the Christmas party at the Buffalo Bar. We never thought we would be able to have such a great christmas dinner with nice bottle of Aussie Red while traveling through China. I know where to come next Christmas

Yangshuo tug of war

We just saw the tug of war competition during the annual Cormorant fishing festival here in Yangshuo and I thought that this needed an article to be written about it

The best way to introduce it is to describe it as a tug of war with Chinese Characteristics....click here for the rest of the article

Now, I have to admit that I know very little about the official rules of International tug of war events, but I do think that this one was a bit different

Firstly, the rope used was a thick steel wire rope that was about half a kilometer in length.  Now, at this stage I thought that perhaps a big truck had broken down and was going to be towed by a train, but no. I then saw large groups of people wearing the same coloured caps, so I thought this must be it. I got myself amongst the crowd and waited for the fun to begin

After a few speeches that seemed to last longer than the opening ceremony of the Olympics, two teams went to the rope with their nice gloves on and grabbed the rope.  Each team was over 100m in length with a mix of men and women. Each team had its own name, such as West street and Yangshuo Electric cars.

The countdown begun at 5 and by the time it had reached 1, both teams were pulling hard on the rope, the crowd yelled their encouragement and eventually someone won and someone lost

It was all just a whole bunch of good fun


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Li River Cruises

There are many different types of cruises that you can do on the Li River, and I have done most of them

Guilin only cruises

These have to be the worst of the lot. Guilin city itself has very few Karst peaks of any real height. You get to cruise within the city and observe 3 or 4 peaks. The rest of the time, you get to glimpse hotels, traffic and shops, ouch!!!

Guilin to Yangshuo cruises

These are by far the most popular cruises in terms of numbers. Every major tour company and some smaller ones will put their groups on these boats. The boats are big enough to hold anything from 60 to 120 people. They usually have a viewing deck at the top which is shared by everyone on the cruise. I have had to use my elbows to get to the railings so that I could see the view.

....click here for the rest of the article Departure time for these cruises is between 9am and 11am. There are no flights that arrive early enough to meet a cruise on the same day. You can easily arrange a cruise the night before from any hotel in Guiin

These cruises leave from a wharf on the outskirts of Guilin and the transfer from Guilin is included in the ticket price.

Lunch is also something to talk about on these boats. It is included in the cost of the ticket. You get a set meal to share with the people at your table. The meal is very Chinese with rice, stir fried vegetables and some meat dishes. Included drinks are a small bottle of water per person and some bottles of beer. The staff on the boat also try to up sell expensive dishes and drinks such as fried shrimps and `snake wine`. You also get to have this lunch during some of the best scenery on the Li River

Many of the people who do these cruises get dropped off in Yangshuo and have a short time to explore West Street for shopping and then return back to Guilin the same day

Yangdi to Xingping cruises

The Yangdi to Xingping section of the Li River is by far the most spectacular part of the Li River. It is possible to arrange a cruise for just this section of the Li River. However, you need to know that the only boats that can take tourists on the Li River are the big boats from Guilin as they are the only officially licensed boats.

The boats that do the Yangdi to Xingping section are the small `farmer's boats`. These boats can hold about 12 people on them and have an open area at the front of the boat where you can sit down and put your feet in the river

Now, as these boats are not licensed, they can only operate when the Li River is not being monitored by the local authorities which is early in the morning or late in the afternoon which is the best time anyway for these cruises as the river has none of the large boats and is very peaceful. This has always been my favourite cruise on the Li River

Cruises from Xingping

There are many `farmer's boats` in Xingping as the monitoring of licensed boats is a bit more lax in Xingping. You can turn up at just about any time of the day to Xingping and have one of these boats take you on the Li River.

The cruise can take you up river towards Yangdi, but not all the way to Yangdi as there are regular inspections near Yangdi. How close does the boat get to Yangdi? Sometimes almost all the way and sometimes about half way. You can never tell as you would know what Yangdi looks like

The cruises out of Xingping can also go towards Yangshuo with a stop at the `fishing village`. This cruise is not as scenic with very few tall peaks along this section of the river. I find this cruise a bit on the boring side

Yangshuo to Fuli and Liugong cruise

This cruise is downstream of Yangshuo and misses all the big boats coming from Guilin. I like this cruise too as it is very relaxing due to the low traffic on the Li River. The cruise is also done on the `farmer's boats`. Both the old towns of Fuli and Liugong are worth a visit on their own

Kayaking Vs. River Cruise

After coming to Yangshuo on Li river cruise and seeing the magical landscape I thought it couldn't get much better but the experience of being in your own kayak going at your own speed and than stopping for nice picnic lunch, this is by far a more of an experience than the cruise